FM007 Styling- Trend Report
By Holly Paykel
132FPL4340
The Motorcycle Jacket
Introduction
The black motorcycle jacket holds both historical and cultural significance.
Throughout time, the motorcycle jacket has ‘transitioned from functional wear, to symbol of courage and cool, to iconic expression within popular culture, to flamboyant artistic design in applied arts and fashion’ (Glenbow Museum, 2014). Originally, created to appeal the emerging generation of “bikers” in the 1930s, the leather motorcycle jacket continues to hold significance in the fashion as an iconic, timeless item of clothing.
Since its initial establishment, the leather jacket has achieved an iconic status in the fashion industry. Its current cultural meaning
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has been developed through the adoption by numerous groups of people including the military, motorcycle gangs, and punk rockers throughout time. In 2014 today, the motorcycle jacket is again considered both “on trend” and a wardrobe staple for both men and women. It is a suitable and stylish addition to any outfit, day or night. Where did the trend originate?
The Schott Brothers, NYC
The original motorcycle jacket dates back to 1928 in Manhattan, New York. Brothers Ivring and Jack Schott, the sons of a Russian immigrant, designed and produced the first leather motorcycle jacket – the “ Perfecto”. The brothers created the jacket in alignment with the new era of “bikers” and America’s general fasciation with Motorcycles. The jacket retailed at $5.50 and was sold at a Long Island Harley Davison Store. The Perfecto was quickly adopted due to the jackets durability and cool, rugged look.
The “Perfecto” leather jacket, named after Schott’s favourite cigar, was the first jacket to feature a diagonal silver zipper. The design featured insured that no air would pass through the jacket when riding a motorcycle. It was made out of black horsehide, and also featured shoulder epaulettes and zippered sleeve cuffs. The “Perfecto” jacket quickly became a symbol of both adventure and danger in the 1930’s, perfectly complimenting the “bikers” fascination with
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motorcycles. The growing popularity of the motorcycle jacket lead to the introduction new designs and styles. In the 1940’s, the 613, or “the One Star” was created with a silver star on each shoulder epaulette. Following this, the 1950’s saw the creation of the 618 leather jacket, featuring a more slimline design with new leathers. The “Perfecto” leather jacket, and styles alike, is again commercially viable today and back "on trend" in the fashion industry. What is it cultural and historical background? The iconic expression of rebellion and effortless grunge associated with the motorcycle jacket can not only be attributed to the biker gangs of the 1930’s but also to the subcultures of The Rockabilly’s of the 1950s and The Punks of the … Hollywood/ The Rockabily’s The completion of World War Two saw a rise in rebellion, including a new fasciation with fast cars and “Rock n Roll”. The motorcycle jacket was featured in Hollywood movies as a sign of rebellion, most popularly worn by Hollywood heart- throbs. In 1954, Marlon Brando featured in the, “The Wild Ones” wearing a Perfecto jacket, perched on his motorcycle and smoking a cigarette. James Dean also starred in the cult classic “Rebel Without a Cause” (1955). The groundbreaking film utilizes the character of a rebellious teenager (Dean), in attempt to capture the moral decay of American youth of the time. The success of the film had all eyes on James Dean both on and off camera. He was rarely seen without his Schott Perfecto motorcycle jacket. The motorcycle jacket was soon banned in schools, as it symbolized a rough and rebellious youth culture. The popularity of the Rockabilly culture in the mid 1950’s, saw a further hype surrounding motorcycle jacket. The Rockabilly uniform consisted for men of cuffed Levi’s jeans, black engineer boots and the black motorcycle jacket – particularly seen on those in the "hot-rod" culture. At this time, the stardom of iconic American singer Elvis Presley went hand in hand with the popularity of the leather motor cycle jacket, with Presley regularly showcasing the look on stage. The popularity of leather motorcycle jacket again reemerged in the 1960s when Hollywood legend Steve McQueen, also known as the “King of Cool” was often seen in his signature aviators and leather jacket. Punk Movement in the 80s and 90s The emergence of the punk subculture throughout the 80's,lead by rock bands such as The Sex Pistols and The Ramones, saw a new significance surrounding the motorcycle jacket. Punk ideologies at this time were primarily concerned with concepts such as anti-establishment, equality, freedom, anti-authoritarianism, individualism, direct action, free thought and non-conformity. Punk subcultures utilized fashion garments, particularly leather motorcycle jackets as a statement of these concepts and their individuality. Leather jackets begun to be modified by punk bands and their fans, with such as studs, embroidery, spikes and patches - accessories, which offers cultural statement rather than cultural value. Each jacket was customized to the owner tastes in music, beliefs and is representative of them as a person. Statements were embroidered onto the backs of jackets, ‘its ‘colour is changed with leather paint (usually only one sleeve or a collar,) band patches are sewn on laboriously in a typical punk DIY fashion overall and over time, creating a look that has evolved with its owner’ (Mitchell, 2009). What influenced its development?
Popular culture/fashion icons/music artists
Subcultures
Political views
- Stereotypes that surround the Perfecto leather jacket. The jacket symbolized a rough and rebellious youth culture. The leather motorcycle jacket was banned in schools in the 1950s.
- Completion of WW2 lead to a rise in rebellion. The movie “ The Wild Ones” (1954) featured hot young actor Marlon Brando , wearing his Schott Perfecto.
- James Dean featured in “Rebel Without a Cause” (1955)– Is there anything more masculine than the 1950s heartthrob on his bike with a cigarette dangling from his lips?
- Steve McQueen, a Fashion Icon ( The King of Cool) in the 60’s, was seen in popular culture riding motorbikes in his jacket smoking.
- Debbie Harry
- 70s/80s – Punk movement - The Schott Perfecto® was the uniform for rock stars like The Ramones, Blondie, Joan Jett and The Sex Pistols.
- 1974: When The Ramones hit the stage at CBGB (also wearing the Schott Perfecto), Punk magazine founder Legs McNeil described them like this: "They were all wearing these black leather jackets…They looked so striking. These guys were not hippies. This was something completely new
- Styled by Jean Paul Gaultier in the 1980’s
- Modern fashion Icon Kate
Moss, How has it evolved to its modern form over various decades? 1930’s - Originally just for men. The ‘Perfecto’ motorcycle leather jacket was jet black. The jacket was constructed with clean, sharp lines. The diagonal zip and silver hardware were distinctive features. The jacket a “boxy” shape. The “One Star Perfecto 613” Leather jackets have a cropped waist, with a snug fit. The 613 features a star on each shoulder. 1950’s –Motorcycle jackets that were popular in the Rockabilly era were similar those in the 1930’s. Some modifications were made, such as extra paneling and pockets were added design features. 1970s’s – The punk revolution saw a change in the look of the leather jacket. Studs, embroidery, spikes, social statements and coloured paint added individuality each leather jacket. Worn by men and women. 1980’s – The motorcycle jacket was recreated and introduced into the every day wardrobe for both men and women. Prominent fashion designer Jean Paul Gautier styled leather on runways. Exposed zippers on the jackets were reduced and assorted leather colours were used. Today – The leather jacket is now considered a staple in the contemporary wardrobe. The original “Perfecto” style jacket remains in fashion, with the generous addition of more feminine styles and shapes. Leather is softer, lighter and draping is introduced. Designers are creative with styles. What are the trends and influences shaping its current look today? – Contribution to contemporary fashion? In modern day culture, the leather motorcycle jacket is considered an “on- trend” outerwear garment for both men and women. The trend strongly re-emerged in the fashion industry in 2009 with a wave of designers, who showcased the “biker” look on the runway. Many celebrities and pop- stars were seen in motorcycle jackets, and those in the streets quickly took upon the look. Fashion magazines have played a considerable role in the re-emergence of the Motorcycle jacket. Magazines such as Vogue, Harpers Bazaar and Elle, have published a multitude of well-known models and celebrities in designer leather jackets. In 2009, international fashion icon Kate Moss, featured in a shoot for Vogue Australia, in black briefs and a simple leather jacket. Moss, with her effortlessly, cool, edge look, is also regularly photographed in the streets in motorcycle jackets, reflecting her glamour yet edgy, “British Punk” look. In November 2012, the Vogue Paris featured a monumental photoshoot of model Anna Selezneva in a series of leather jackets and smoking a cigarette, leaning against a 1950’s style car. Garments used in the shoots resembled the “hot-rod” fashion, with studded leather jackets, white t-shirts, and denim jeans. International pop stars, have also influenced the re-emergence of the motorcycle jacket trend. Lady Gaga is regularly seen in the original Schott Perfecto Jacket, as well as many other adaptations of the ‘Perfecto”. The jacket also featured in her 2011 ‘Judas’ music video clip. In the year prior, Lady Gaga wore, a Punk inspired motorcycle jacket with metal studs and embroidery in the music video clip for ‘Telephone’, along side superstar Beyonce. Fashion Designers play an influential role in the creation of trends in the 21st century. The new millennium has seen designers turning to creative modifications of the motorcycle jacket. Designer Helmut Lang, and many others, have simplified the jacket with clean lines and small streamline zippers for a minimalist look. Additionally, the motorcycle jacket has become tailored to the woman’s figure for a more feminine look, with draping, slim cuts and soft leathers. Finally, the power of social media and fashion bloggers has allowed the trend of the motorcycle jacket to become widespread internationally. Reference list http://www.schottnyc.com/about.cfm http://www.glamour.com/fashion/blogs/dressed/2009/08/a-brief-chic-history-of-the-mo http://www.ruelala.com/blog/2012/12/20/history-leather-jacket/ http://www.openobject.org/modmania/The_Journey_of_the_Leather_Jacket_And_The_Surrounding_Punk_Culture http://stevenmills-stevenstyle.blogspot.com.au/2010/09/bikers-jackets-trend-or-classic.html http://www.glenbow.org/exhibitions/worn-to-be-wild/ http://www.details.com/blogs/daily-details/2012/12/a-history-of-leather-pride-and-glory-the-art-of-the-rockers-jacket.html Glenbow Museum. (2014). Black Leather at Glenbow. Available: http://www.glenbow.org/exhibitions/worn-to-be-wild/. Last accessed 10th Aug 2014. Mitchell, S. (2009). The Journey of the Leather Jacket And The Surrounding Punk Culture. Available: http://www.openobject.org/modmania/The_Journey_of_the_Leather_Jacket_And_The_Surrounding_Punk_Culture. Last accessed 10th Aug 2014.
This young man was hoping for a cool jacket , “something like the bikers wear: black
Depending on who you ask, this fashion became popular in the early 1940’s. As we can see, history has a tendency to line things up for the “perfect storm.” This just so happen to be the time that thousands of service men, fresh out of boot camp arrived in Los Angeles looking to blow off steam before being deployed into combat around the world. To these service men, large baggy pants and jackets were a symbol of hate or disrespect to the
New fashions were surfacing in both men’s and women’s fashions. Men were wearing Bermuda pants, baggy pants that were cut off at the knee, while women were wearing capris, tight pants that cut off just below the knee. Men were wearing tailored jackets and making a slight move towards the casual dress of today’s workplace. Women were wearing natural shoulders as opposed to the heavily padded ones of the war years. Flat, neck-hugging collars replaced the mannish collars of the late 1940’s. Waists were tightly fitted and skirts were long (Melinkoff 46). The jeans of the time were often lined with plaid flanel and dungarees were worn to the most casual occasions. The sandals of the fifties were not much different than the sandals of today.
Alam, Ferdus. "An Overview on Bulletproof Jacket." Textile Learner. Ed. Mazharul I. Kiron. Textile Learner. Web. 07 May 2014.
The narrator strongly claimed that his clothes have failed him when he recalled the green jacket he wore on his fifth and sixth grade. He believed that instead of looking like a champion, his day-old guacamole colored jacket has embarrassed him that lead him to think it has failed him (Soto, 473). He had actually hoped and requested to his mom a different jacket. It is the kind of jacket that the bikers wear which is black leather and silver stud with enough belts that will make him look brave. But disappointment struck him when he found an ordinary green jacket instead. He stared at the jacket and wanted to cry because to him it was ugly and so big. Moreover, he knew he will have to bear with the fact that he will be wearing that ugly jacket for a very long time. For a brief moment he was still in denial and was expecting it was his brother’s jacket. Acceptance came later since he has no other choice but to wear it. With a heavy heart he slipped into his jacket and decided to head out of the house.
The 1946 film The Wild One is widely considered the archetype for modern motorcycle film and culture. The movie portrays a rebellious protagonist that consistently goes against the grain of society. This is the first time that the motorcycle is accompanied with the rebellious connotation of a counter culture movement. This is an image that has since stayed with the motorcycle. An example of this is when Mildred ask Johnny, the insubordinate protagonist what he’s rebelling against. Johnny responds with “whadda you got?” this is a powerful quote in which director Laslo Benedek summarized his interpretation of this new motorcycle counter culture. This identity of reckless anarchists took off and became the widely accepted as the motorcycle identity. The Wild One came out in a time of rapidly accepted conformity, and provided an outlet to individuals seeking and individual identity. This is a “Hipster” identity that many bikers in the 1940s emulated from Afric...
Be stylishly guilt free in the Vegan Leather Moto Jacket. The comfy jacket has a quilted leather detail on shoulders and upper arm area. Two functional zipper pockets near bottom and adjustable zipper/ button closure. Also has two buttons to adjust collar. Wear with ripped black skinnies and tall ankle boots for the Rock n Roll
Men and women’s clothing intentions have always been to keep up to date with current trends, catch the eye, and to flatter. Fashion has one of the biggest impacts on our lifestyles. When the U.S. goes to war, new military uniforms and styles come into picture. The war affects designs, fabrics, and colors of the current fashion trends. Occasionally certain styles reappear in different forms during times of war. Design and creativity’s core comes from adding on to past garments. One of the major pieces of attire that is constantly influenced by military style is the woman’s jacket.
Earlier, these protective clothing were made from various cheap materials, and used by people who braved harsh environmental conditions. As time went on, these items became a status symbol of the owner. Following are some anecdotes that will help you understand the popularity of this clothing
Köln: Taschen, 2006. Print. The. Mackenzie, Mairi. .isms: Understanding Fashion.
Lawson, David "History Of Renaissance Clothing - How Today's Fashion Is Affected." 6 Jul. 2011 EzineArticles.com. 16 Nov. 2011
The topic in which that I will be talking about in this essay is about the development of the military helmet from the past, on towards the current time and the future of the helmet’s and how feasible the development of the future design will be. The development of the military helmet has always been a large impact on the survivability of the infantry unit, being in which the design’s had to always consider the possible advantages and risks that maybe brought to the infantry soldiers. First sightings of the use of military helmets can be dated back all the way to the medieval era, but as of recent times the dangers that the infantry has been exposed to has increased the need of a better designed helmet which would allow better mobility and protection. This is the reason in which I have focused from the time period of WWI. The research question that I had used to further this investigation is “How has the development of technology allowed for the advancement of military helmets?”, My research is meant to show how helmets have developed
Throughout history, it can be seen that women were often judged. Many times, this judgement was based upon their appearance. With this in consideration, the fact that newspapers carried stories obtaining specifically to proper women's dress for cycling during the 1890s should not come as a surprise. The idea that women needed to be careful of their appearance in public, especially pertaining to their demeanor and dress, evidently transferred to the Wheelwomen as well. Through this paper, the idea that it was not women’s behaviour in public that was of concern, but the concern surrounded the modesty of their clothing will be examined, along with the thought that this judgment was put forth from the minds of men, rather than those of women. This
In the early 1960s a new sport was on the rise in the California area- that sport was motocross. Children and adults alike were entranced with the loud roar of the engines and the high speeds and air which these motorized bicycles could reach. Many people began swarming to motocross events, and others even began to race their bicycles on dirt tracks to feel as if they were motocross racers. Bicycle manufacturers saw this as an opening for expanding to a new market. (Davies)
In the early 1960s a lot of fashion reflected the style of the first lady Jackie Kennedy. Oval shaped widened shoulders were introduced and skirts were beginning to rise to the middle of the knee. Costumes dominated evening wear, even simple jackets or wraps were becoming a trend. Suits for men drifted away from the pale toned shades, and turned to bright and colourful patterns. It included frills, wide ties, leather boots and collarless jackets (1960s in Fashion reference) High rounded hats and square-toed shoes were also popular accessories. Leather and furs were all the fashion. Vests, kerchiefs, rough cotton stockings, turtlenecks and paisley ascot scarves created “a sportive look” which later became a phrase. Simple geometric dresses were worn, full skirted evening gowns were also popular, Fashion was concentrated on 3 main things: sleek and slender, soft with a muffled neckline and a “natural outline”. (Fashion in the 60s, Paul Phillips, 2014)