Processing of Cotton:
Generically, Processing of cotton involves following steps; 1. Ginning 2. Spinning 3. Weaving 4. Processing
Ginning
It is the process of cleaning the cotton. Heavy impurities like leaves, seeds etc. are removed from cotton in this process. From ginning factories, cotton is sent to spinning units in bale form.
Types of Ginning: There are following two types of ginning;
a. Roller Ginning b. Saw Ginning a. Roller Ginning: It is used for long length fibers. b. Saw Ginning: It is used for short length fibers
Spinning:
Spinning is the process of converting fiber into yarn.
Machines in Spinning:
Basically, Spinning involves following machines;
1. Blow Room
2. Carding
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Similar methods are knitting, felting, and braiding or plaiting. The longitudinal threads are called the warp and the lateral threads are the weft or filling. The method in which these threads are inter woven affects the characteristics of the cloth. Cloth is usually woven on a loom, a device that holds the warp threads in place while filling threads are woven through them. A fabric band which meets this definition of cloth (warp threads with a weft thread winding between) can also be made using other methods, including tablet weaving, back-strap, or other techniques without looms.
The way the warp and filling threads interlace with each other is called the weave. The majority of woven products are created with one of three basic weaves: plain weave, satin weave, or twill. Woven cloth can be plain (in one color or a simple pattern), or can be woven in decorative or artistic design.
Types of Weaves:
1. Plain Weave
The plain weave repeats on 2 Ends × 2 Picks. The plain fabric comprises a high percentage of the total production of woven fabrics and it can be produced on a loom with two harness. It has the highest number of interlacing as compared with other weaves and therefore it produces the firmest
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Fabric is inspected for defects before it is dyed . It has been inspected by 10%. If the fabric get defects more than 10 %. Then fabric is returned back to weaver.
Types of greige fabric defect:
Knots
Slubs
Broken yarn
Cut or Tear
Missing warp
Missing weft
Missing ends
Missing picks
Processing Department:
The processing unit of NML comprises of the following department:
Bleaching Department
Dyeing Department
Finishing Department
Folding Department
Bleaching Department:
Steps of bleaching
1) Singeing
2) Desizing
3) Scouring
4) Bleaching
5) Mercerizing
6) Emrising
Singeing process
The word “Singe” literally means “to burn superficially”. “Singeing is the burning of loose fibers that are not firmly bound into the yarn and/or fabric structure” Singeing is a part of the pretreatment processes carried out in textile processing, and is usually the first step carried out after weaving.
Objective:
To obtain smooth surface.
Level dyeing and clean out liner of the printing.
To increase lusture of finished fabric.
Important and essential process from the point of the view of the unnecessary printing and
Hmong textiles are designed with a variety of geometric shapes and patterns. Shapes are regularly added to their dresses, headdresses, and flower cloths. During the Hmong New Year, men and women wear a traditional dress with a turban wrap or a rooster hat. The dress has a very conservative style; covering majority of the body of the man or woman. It is designed by adding embroideries and appliqués. The headdress is also a main part of the dress. Turban wrap is used as a rounded covering for the head, conversely the rooster hat is highly decorated and resembling the comb of a rooster. The flower cloth, or the Hmong word "Paj Ntaub", has been in the Hmong history for over two centuries. Flower cloths are embroideries contain mainly geometric designs and bright yarns. Hmong textiles are often embellished with bright yarns and are usually know as "story cloths." They were weaved to narrate different series of events: the villa...
When examining textile damages, two common techniques are considered i.e. macroscopically (with the naked eye) and microscopically examining the area that might have possible damages to the fabric. Also, looking at the characteristics of the area to discover whether the textile has been torn, punctured, cut etc...
The strengths of the book come from its’ accessibility. The book is easy to follow and provides readers with a great deal of information about the production of mass-manufactured clothing. As well as brings awareness to its’ many issues which we inadvertently take part in when we purchase such products. The book is well written and thoroughly researched but does have its’ share of weaknesses.
As stated earlier, the deer grass was the most common plant material to use for the coiling. For the patterns, Juncus or split sumac, would be used using a “pierce and penetrate” method which would be sown to the “underlying coil.” According to Justin F. Farmer, “an important diagnostic trait of the mission basket would be the Bound Under Fag End Stitch, or BUFES” (Farmer 10). The fag end stitch is the beginning strand of the basket that the weaver subtly blends into the coiled basket as a whole. The strand is also kept short, and even on rare occasions, cut away to make it less conspicuous. It is also worthy to note that a great majority of mission baskets are made to go into a clockwise direction. The time spent by the weaver to produce a good quality basket had proved rather tedious, and according to Farmer, “depending on whether the weaver uses juncus or sumac, it could take the exact time to weave the basket as it does to process the materials” (Farmer 13). Although, at times, some baskets were weaved quickly using the seeds of the juncus plant; and were called, “throw away
The cotton gin was a machine that cleaned cotton, especially short-stemmed cotton. The cotton gin consisted of spiked teeth on a boxed revolving cylinder. When it was turned by a crank, the cotton fiber was pulled through small slotted openings to separate the seeds from the lint. While that was happening a rotating brush, operated by belts and pulleys, removed the ropey lint from the spikes. A machine had been invented before to clean long-staple cotton called a “Charka.” It was invented in Ancient India. Eli Whitney had no idea that a machine existed while he made his machine.
Also, the color that is the weavers weave in the cloth and different fabrics have various colors, some broken colors, the grays have the most vibrant colors that balance each other out into a harmonious palette from a distance.
The himation was a rectangle of wool with weighted corners, slung over the left shoulder, leaving the right arm free; or worn, by married women, with the corner over the head like a shawl (cwu). Sometimes this garment was worn as is, with nothing under it. If it covered the whole body it was an appropriate garment to wear. The himation was used even used as a blanket. The colors of this garment was usually natural, brown, black or tan, but sometimes dyed different colors, scarlet, crimson or purple.
Today weaving is a very lucrative business. Over the past 10 years the hair extension market has developed remarkably and there are more weaving techniques than ever. Growing up I can remember my aunt Jeannie, my mothers’ sister adding a hair extension ponytail made out of synthetic hair to me and my cousin Yalena, Marys’ daughters’ hair. Synthetic hair looks similar to human hair but is made out of monofilament fibers, polyfilament fibers, acrylic or polyester. She would brush our hair into a single ponytail with gel, spritz, and using rubber bands secure it. Next she would make a French braid using the synthetic hair and with a rubber band tie it to the ponytail. Then the hair left out from our ponytails was wrapped around the braid and
While the price of cotton textiles decreased by 90%, the output had grown to cover the demand at affordable prices. Now, cotton will be gotten from Brazil, Egypt, southern United Sates and all this meant a...
Many, many things that we wear, sleep on, sleep under, walk on, or utilize in wound-care, etc., contain some percentage of cotton. It is a fiber that is used everyday, by everyone, in one way or another. It has qualities that have made it a choice crop for centuries around the world. Today though, cotton is being largely displaced by synthetic fibers that have qualities that exceed the natural crop plant. These fibers can also be mass-produced and sold at relatively lower costs.
The textile manufacturing industry is one of the biggest industries in the world that is currently worth nearly three thousand trillion dollars. The industry is constantly growing with the wants from consumers around the world. In order to meet and satisfy these wants from customer, “Development in the textile and clothing industry has focused on technological and cost aspects. Emphasis has been placed on keeping the price of the final product low and increasing efficiency in production.” (Niinimaki & Hassi, 2010, p. 1876) At the same time, with this expansion of the textile manufacturing industry and its consumption, pollution, climate change, fossil fuel and raw material depletion, and water pollution and shortage are constantly occurring
From 2005 the textile segment has been made up of 2 companies, transforming raw materials into fabrics, from spinning to finishing and ennobling. Handicraft product quality and technological research development characterize this business segment which works with internationally recognized names of the apparel and fashion industry.
Weaving is a common thread among cultures around the world. Weaving is a way of producing cloth or textile. Today we have machines that weave large-scale textiles at cheap prices. Production of cloth by hand is rarely engaged in today’s Westernized societies. Not many people are thinking about how the fibers are actually constructed to make their clothes. However, in other cultures across the world the tradition of weaving still exists. By comparing three cultures that continue weaving as a part of their tradition we can see similarities and the differences between them. The reasons that each culture still weaves vary, as do the methods and materials. The desired characteristics of the cloth also vary around the world as each culture values different aesthetics.
replaced by colorful displays of knitted or crocheted yarn. Despite how beautiful or expressive this forms may be, but among many artists the
Fabrics can be made of natural and synthetic materials. Natural fabrics, like cotton (NY Fashion Center) for example, are found here on earth while synthetic fabrics are manmade (MV Styles). There are many distinguish ways to determine if a fabric is natural or synthetic. Each fabric is different in its own way due to it reaction to heat, its odor, residue and chemicals (MV Styles). Fabrics are seen and used every day and in every way. Synthetic material has been pushed more into the picture because it much easier to make and the cheapest to buy. Synthetic materials are sometimes made form fossil fuels like coal. Cotton and Broadcloth are natural fabrics; Polyester is synthetic and Flannel in a synthetic blend with cotton. Fabrics are made up of fibers which have their own chemical structure, which determines their classification. Polymers make up the fibers (Ball-Deslich and Funkhouser). Since cotton is natural, it comes from a natural cellulose fiber with the polymer of glucose (Cotton). Polyester is synthetic which can be classified as saturated or u...