Fashion is an expression of one’s identity and has long been influenced by women’s place in society. Gender has long controlled an individual’s role in society as it set certain expectations for men and women. Throughout the history of the United States, women have struggled to gain equality, and as different roles and societal expectation changed throughout history, so did the fashions of the time.
Women’s fashion during the American Revolution and Antebellum period consisted of a gown and petticoat worn over a second hooped petticoat which kept one's skirt out, and stays, which were whale-boned undergarments similar to corsets. The fabrics, dyes, and number of layers of garments depended on the wealth of the lady in question. Many ladies
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dressed very simply during the war to send more money to the American troops. Women participated in the revolutionary efforts by making most of the clothing during this time, both to honor boycotts of British goods and also to help supply the revolutionary forces. Commentators in the first half of the nineteenth century tended to see women as intellectually inferior and insisted that their proper role was maintaining the house and caring for children. The restrictive clothing during this period reflected this “cult of domesticity,” which dictated that women keep a proper Christian home, separate from the male sphere of politics, business, and competition. When women married, any property they owned became the property of their husbands, and under the legal doctrine of femme covert, wives had no independent legal or political standing. The many cumbersome petticoats and skirts that women wore indicated their affordable idleness due to their husband’s wealth. The Progressive Era brought about the “New Woman.” Women began to challenge prevailing notions of gender embodied in the cult of domesticity in the 1880s and 1890s by forming voluntary organizations, working in settlement houses to aid immigrants, attending college, and promoting social and political reform. These women (and their male allies) pushed for a greater degree of equality in the United States. As the economic dislocations wrought by industrialization touched more and more families, many women became more politically engaged. Women’s clubs investigated and advocated around issues of poverty, working conditions, and pollution. Their new active lives required more practical clothing than the many-layered, draped outfits of the Victorian lady, and resulted in simpler, more streamlined clothing, most modeled after male attire. Dresses were looser fitting, whereas before they were fitted to create a certain silhouette with the “s-bend” corset. Most notably, by 1905 tailored suits became a staple for women beginning to work in white collar jobs. Leisure apparel was also introduced, and became a part of many women’s wardrobes. The outfit of the turn-of-the-century college girl was a skirt, sensibly shorter than current fashion dictated, and a shirtwaist, which the female version of a male dress shirt. This outfit was essentially the equivalent of jeans and a t-shirt today. Suffragettes generally chose to wear classically feminine styles to combat negative media portrayals of suffragettes as unattractive spinsters. The suffragette suit with its angle-length divided skirt was made in place of the hobble skirt that was in style during this period and was hemmed so tight at the ankles that it made it hard for women to take unrestricted steps. Sashes of purple, white, and green were worn with the suits. Emmeline Pethick-Lawrence, business manager of the WSPU and editor of Votes for Women, chose the color scheme for the suffragettes. This created an incredibly strong visual presence that was responsible for producing the brand identity that was so successful in gaining members and positive publicity. The Roaring Twenties marked a significant turning point for women as they sought less to change the other sex and concentrated on improving themselves.
Prohibition had come about in part because of the insistent demand of women, but the new woman of the post-war decade changed her attitude toward the consumption of alcohol, as well as her stance on courtship, marriage, the rearing of children, the knee length dress, and beauty contests. This decade of decadence and fun was exemplified by rising skirts, dress hemlines and waistlines lowered to the hip, elaborately beaded designs, and feathered accessories. The new look for women in the 1920s became that of a straight line, boxy silhouette. This boyish physique was in response to women’s realization that they are just as good as men, having proven themselves during the years of World War I through going to work and earning their own money, and with that had experienced true independence. Women’s hair was cut short like men, their dress paralleled men’s, and curves were flattened with a bandeau to achieve a straight, hipless, bustless figure. However, once the stock market crashed and the Great Depression set in, hemlines returned to their conservative length. Factory made garments became popular because clothing could be mass produced for far less money than made to order custom garments. Women suffered a double burden during the Depression: on the one hand, they were responsible for putting food on the table during difficult times, while on the other hand, they were frequently scorned if they “took a job away from a man” by working outside the home. Further, New Deal programs tended to slight women by excluding them from jobs on federal lands and setting lower wage levels for women than for men. Nonetheless, individual women such as Frances Perkins, the first female cabinet member, and Eleanor Roosevelt, one of the most active and public first ladies in American history, opened doors for
women. When World War II broke out, women were eager to do their part for the war effort, and once again entered the workforce. Some served in the military, others took over jobs left by men sent overseas, and hundreds of thousands volunteered their help with various organizations, one of the largest and most widespread being the American Red Cross. Some volunteer units permitted the use of breeches, bloomers, or overall trousers, and they soon gained widespread acceptance for casual wear. Since many women were working in factories, headscarves became a fashionable trend to both brighten up one’s factory overalls and keep long hair from being getting caught in machinery. Fabric was rationed to supply the war effort, so hemlines rose once again and shorter skirts placed emphasis on legs. Additionally, the branches of the United Service Organization (USO) recruited thousands of women to serve as hostesses in their clubs. They were expected to dress nicely, dance well, and chat happily with lonely men. Other women joined “dance brigades,” traveling by bus to military bases for social evenings with servicemen. The USO girls and the members of the dance brigades were forbidden to have any contact with men except at parties at the clubs or during dances. After the war, women were expected to return to their previous role of wife and mother, leaving the jobs for the men who had returned. Christian Dior introduced the “new look,” which consisted of long hemlines, tons of fabric, wide hats, and tight-nipped waists that were reminiscent of the antebellum period. The new silhouette gave women an hourglass-shaped figure and a return to feminine extravagance. This demonstrated the affluent society and rise of conservative suburbia. Women were expected to remain at home and spend a lot of money getting dressed, while their husbands were the “breadwinners” of the family. The conformity of the 1950s and its high-maintenance lifestyle eventually gave way to the rebellious culture in the sixties and the second wave of feminism. In the 1960s, a women’s liberation movement developed, challenging inequities in the job market, representations of women in the media, violence against women, and an ingrained set of social values. Many women were inspired by Betty Friedan’s 1963 book, The Feminine Mystique, which challenged the traditional options in life offered to middle-class women. Friedan was one of several women to found the National Organization for Women in 1966, the leading liberal organization supporting women’s rights. Many Americans heard about the women’s liberation movement for the first time from news reports of a protest at the 1968 Miss America pageant. The pageant exemplified to the protestors society’s attitude toward women in which women were valued for their looks above all else. Feminism was embodied first in miniskirts, which defied the model femininity of the 1950s, and then with clothing designed for women in careers. Hemlines reached their highest in history up to that point and clothing came in new, bold colors and fabrics. The Civil Rights movement was also reflected in black models and African-inspired clothing. Women of all races who protested for equal rights and equal treatment condemned the fashion and advertising industries for objectifying them as sexual objects to sell them expensive anti-aging creams and constricting girdles to shape their figures and conform them to an artificial standard of beauty. From the 1970s to the present, the percentage of women engaged in the workforce has grown. This is due to the women’s liberation movement effort to challenge traditional gender expectation. Many women felt less pressure to marry at a young age, have children, and work at home. Also, the availability of the birth control pill and abortions allowed women to have greater control over their reproductive lives. This allowed women to decide to focus on a career first, putting off the decision about whether to have children. Historians note a “quiet revolution” of women entering the workplace from the late 1970s until the present. The percentage of households in which women are the sole or primary breadwinner rose from fifteen percent in 1970 to forty-two percent by 2015. By the 1980s, women felt a greater sense of authority and control in the workplace and were keen to work their way into senior positions. Many grappled with the idea of enforcing their feminity by wearing dresses and skirts, thereby emphasizing their exceptional status in a male dominated sphere, or downplaying their gender by wearing suits. Hillary Clinton, for instance, is known for wearing her pantsuits that convey her status as the former U.S. secretary of state. The stiff, sharply cut power suits with wide shoulders became popular with businesswomen and created a feeling of authority as the traditional sex roles continued to blur. Overall, fashion trends spanning late eighteenth century to the twenty-first reflect the evolving social and political standing of women in American history. The styles of the Victorian Era, the twenties, post-wars, the 1950s, the 1960s, and on demonstrate a women’s place in society. From the infamous corsets which restricted women’s movements, to the trends of the twenty-first century, the growing role of women in the workplace and politics is followed by changes in fashion.
Throughout history, there were many things that influenced fashion and the ideal body image of the time. Things such as politics, and changes in social roles were some things that had an influence on the fashion of the day. One particular shocking thing that had influenced on the fashion around the 1800s were sickness and diseases. Not only were diseases and sickness caused by different fashion trends, but it set the tone for certain ideal body images and also influenced the fashion of the time.
Some people hated this idea of the Flapper and they blamed the war for these women’s new behaviors. After World War I, young women and young girls started to act free and go against their families. “Some people in society blamed the war for triggering this rebellion of youth and they claimed it had upset the balance of the sexes and, in particular, confuse women of their role in society and where they truly belonged” (Grouley 63). Some people hated the idea of the flappers and these women had become. These women, the flappers, in the 1920s felt free after the 19th amendment was passed. “Since the early twentieth century, the sexual habits of these American women had changed in profound ways” (Zeitz 21). Flappers drank, partied, and had romantic evenings with men. All of which were illegal for women. In addition, they were an embarrassment to society and they were able to get away with anything. “Flappers were a disgrace to society because they were lazy-pleasure seekers who were only interested in drinking, partying, and flirting” (Dipalo 1). For instance, Flappers went to clubs, drank, and hung out with men and were too lazy to do anything. Therefore, one consequence of the war was the creation of a new woman and this led to a movement like no other.
In the mid 1960s more and more women started to look like men (maga 103). Although the trousers suit for women was launched, people suspected that some of the inspiration of the way women started dressing came from father down the ...
...d women’s fashion to break free from convention. Bras and corsets were seen as symbols of oppression and conformity. They were discarded by many women as many new fads appeared,(). Women also exhibited their newfound freedom by wearing traditional male clothing such as baggy trousers, men's jackets, vests, over-sized shirts, ties and hats.
If we didn’t have fashion then a lot of people wouldn’t have jobs because there are a whole bunch of fashion designers out there, also all of the celebrities wouldn’t have name brand clothing because there would be no way to make them because we wouldn’t have designers. Fashion of the 1920’s played a very big role in today’s fashion. Including the material our clothing is made out of also the styles of clothing we wear. Many things women wear today first came from fashion in the 1920's. Flappers, shoe styles, and accessories are a few things that we wear today have came from. Many celebrities still wear some things that people wore in the 1920's including flappers. Have you ever wondered what the amazing fashion of the 1920's was like?
During World War I, many men were drafted away from their families to fight for America. The men left an excess of jobs available for women to take. These jobs were not just an option but also a necessary responsibility to support their family, while their husbands were at war. In the absence of many men, women wore shorter skirts for functionality, learned to drive cars, and cut their hair. It is believed that because of the shortage of qualified men, women became more aggressive towards them, demonstrating behavior of a “Flapper” ("Flappers." Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion”) World War 1 gave women a taste of what it was like to earn a living outside of the house and they liked the independence. When the men came back from the war, women were not so eager to give it up. Also, the war had wiped out a number of males, not only leaving more jobs available for women, but also leaving wives and...
Time flew by and as the war ended in 1918, the 1920’s decade of change soon approached. The year was famously known as “The Jazz Age” and “The Roaring 20’s” because of the newly found freedom, social and political changes, and the time of prohibition. Among these powerful new changes was the freedom that women were finally able to vote and enjoy what was about to come. Instead of being confined at home, the women joined labor forces, worked with wages, and experimented with different types of behavior that would have been unreasonable a few years back. Along with these dramatic changes were their fashion styles. This style changed their rights and relationships with others completely. With that change, a new woman was born. There were not many ways for women to stand up for themselves and what they believed in. They had no voice but in the 1920’s, women found a way of freely expressing themselves and changing their relationships with others all with the start of fashion.
In the 19th century play, FASHION, Anna Mowatt develops the character plot as a contrast and comparison between being “natural” and “artificial in a world becoming preoccupied with fashion, and being fashionable. In the head notes, it was stated that Daniel Havens said FASHION is “the ugly image of the American Dream gone sour.” (Watt and Richardson) Fashion has a complex definition. The word ‘fashion’ can mean anything from the type of clothes you wear, how you communicate with others, the place you live, how you present yourself, or who you associate yourself with. In FASHION, Mowatt took a comical yet sober look at the definitions of “fashion,” applied it to real life in 1845, and through her characters, provides a mirror with which an audience/reader can evaluate themselves. I do not believe updating this play would be difficult because America has continued down the fast and destructive path in an effort to keep up with the “fashions” of the day.
Women before the 1920's were very different from the women of the Roarin' 20's. Gwen Hoerr Jordan stated that the ladies before the 1920's wore dresses that covered up most of their skin, had pinned up long hair, were very modest, had chaperones and had men make all of their decisions (1). "On both sides of the Atlantic they'd been struggling against the kind of rigidly sexist culture that meant a women could be arrested for smoking a cigarette while walking down a public street" (Judith 1). The women of the 1920's were independent, demanded equality and lived with bold depravity which is considered a flapper. These women'as lives were not all fun and play; women had to work, often as maids in private homes, but, throughout the decade they could branch our to other jobs. "By 1920, there were more than 650 colleges that admitted both men and women, and more than seven percent of American women between the ages of 18 and 21 attended college" (Jordan 1-2). Women before the 1920's relied on men a lot and did not get very good educations.
Fashion in the 21st century is a big business, as its production employs millions of people and generates billions of dollars in revenue. Fashion has for the past century been, and is still today, used as an indicator of social change and progress, as it changes with the social norms of the society and the political changes of the world (Finkelstein 3). Works Cited Finkelstein, Joanne. A.S.A. & Co. Fashion: An Introduction to Fashion. New York: New York University Press, 1998.
For example, if people saw me wear Concords, they would categorize me as being into basketball or hip hop. It is also mostly guys who are wearing basketball shoes that notice my shoes. Therefore, it makes me feel masculine and makes me feel like I belong to the basketball or hip hop culture, but at the same time, I feel like I do not belong to a certain group. Thus, fashion is different in ethnics group, gender, and class because it serves to unite people or to establish a separation from other groups. It originated from women in order to make up for their disadvantage status, middle class in order to increase their social status and marginal social groups for their lack of social importance and cities for social density and wealth (Fashion, 310). Therefore, fashion play an important role in our lives back then and
Fashion is a major way one can physically represent themselves, having the power to show emotion, personality, and culture. Fashion allows one to get a sense of who one is, just by looking at them and their personal style. In early America, this very personal way of expression was stolen from women. Ultimately women were told what was acceptable in society, and expected to follow these beliefs. These expectations of how a respectable women should dress really affected woman mentally and physically. This unthinkable barrier women had to face eventually helped push women to fight for their natural born rights, often violated by
Susceptibility to fashion trends was clearly rooted in gender; women fell prey to fashion and then exposed their husbands and sons. Fashion in the early centuries was not only for the wealthy, but it was made clear that fashion was feminine. “ Fashion had become an art in feminine gender.” (74) Lipovetsky believed that fashion was a privileged way of expressing the uniqueness of individuals. He argues that the introduction of fashion in the lower estate led to democracy by “reinforcing the awareness of belonging to a single political and cultural community.” (33) Fashion deeply supported individualism by encouraging the bourgeoisie to overthrow their existing Regime system and advocate for equality in their social and political systems. According to Lipovestky, “ As an institution, fashion registers the rigid barriers of class stratification and class ideal within its own order; at the same time, it is an institution in which individuals can exercise their freedom and their critical faculties.” (32) Moreover, the emergence of fashion contributed to the rise of authentic expression and dressing according to
middle of paper ... ... It also analyzed the influences of modern dresses. As Palmer and Clark (2005) mentioned earlier, both decades are the classic era in fashion history.
Clothing has been around for thousands of years; almost as long as the modern human has. At first, it served the practical purpose of protection from the elements; but, as life for early humans stopped being a constant struggle to survive, they started noticing how they looked and the concept of fashion began to take shape. These first few garments were typically dyed draped cloth that was pinned at the shoulder and/or waist. This was seen in many ancient civilizations around the world, Greek and Roman the most notable. Over time, clothing began to get more and more complex and formed to the body’s shape, eventually leading up to the tailored style we now have today. However, the sophisticated world of Haute Couture; or high fashion, can distinctly trace its roots to Paris during the mid-19th century. Clothing from there was thought to be superior to those from anywhere else, and women began to come from all over Europe just to buy dresses. This was probably due in part to one notable dressm...