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Women's status in two world wars
Women's status in two world wars
Womens influence on war
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Jeans and denim have become the most popular and versatile clothing options in America, but it hasn’t always been that way. Between the time of invention to present day, traditional blue work jeans and denim changed from being a sign of lower-middle working class and frowned upon by the upper class, to being conventional and worn by most Americans as a result of The Dude Ranch Craze, the influence of media on rebellious teens and young girls, as well as wearing denim to show patriotism during World War II.
Jeans were invented in 1873 by Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis, two business partners looking to make money during the California Gold Rush. This new kind of pants were distinguished by the rivets in the material that made them sturdier and
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last longer, and were designed to be functional rather than fashionable. They were patented May 20, 1873, and at the time, they were called “waist overalls”. Over the years, jeans have been redesigned and made into thousands of different styles to keep up with the ever-changing fashion industry. The practical design of jeans and their accompanying sturdiness caused them to quickly gain popularity among local laborers shortly after invention. Jeans were ideal for workers such as farmers, gold prospectors, construction workers, and others alike because the rivets made the fabric stronger and prevented seams from ripping. Jeans’ initial image of being for poor workers lacking fashion derived from these lower-middle class laborers wearing the pants before they were widely accepted. The Dude Ranch Craze played an important role in the popularization of jeans and denim when rich couples living in the East would visit dude ranches while on vacation to experience “traditional” Western culture.
Western films had created an image in the mind of people living in the East of the Western lifestyle, which included cowboys in their blue jeans and boots with a lasso and horse for rounding cattle. Along with Western films, Levi Strauss & Co. advertised their jeans as being “traditionally Western”, as seen in a 1950’s print ad depicting a man wearing Levi’s jeans and a cowboy hat with the text “The West Grew Up in Levi’s”. The people in the East wanted to experience the Western culture they had seen in films and visited dude ranches on vacation to get a sense of it for themselves. Dude ranches, also known as guest ranches, are a form of agritourism that allow guests to participate in a variety of ranch-oriented activities, such as helping with cattle, riding horses, and learning new skills, like how to use a lasso. The Dude Ranch Craze refers to the growing popularity of dude ranches across the United States during the late 19th and 20th …show more content…
centuries. Dude ranches arose in the late 19th century as a result of the romanticization of the American West. The movement then spiked after World War I. Postwar prosperity allowed couples and families to spend more on vacation and leisure activities. The growing popularity and use of automobiles sparked increased travel, and the rise of Western films cultivated the desire of people in the East to experience Western culture hands-on. One aspect of guest ranches were the jeans that the guests wore. To the guests, jeans were foreign, something they had seen the cowboys in the movies wear. However, they were more than a costume. The guests of the dude ranches would bring a pair of jeans back home with them. The popularity of “traditional” Western culture was a trend that would soon evolve to be a full-blown fashion phenomenon, resulting in jeans and denim being America’s most notorious piece of clothing. The rebellious image behind jeans was first established by a group of artists around Santa Fe in the 1920’s. These artists, both male and female, wore jeans as a statement of nonconformity and “… were identifying themselves with the ruggedness, the directness, and earthiness of the laborer, and were placing themselves as a part of the Western scene.”(Gordon 32). The artists used jeans as a declaration of their rebellion against the fashion norm, as well as being an identification of their own separate group and elite status. World War II created an increased demand for jeans due to more people working in factories to contribute to the war effort.
Factory work during the war was seen in a positive light, and therefore denim came to symbolize patriotism during World War II due to the denim the war factory workers wore. Women, who rarely worked in factories pre-WWII, found the ability to wear jeans, granted by the need for laborers, liberating in contrast to their usual tight and uncomfortable dresses. The need for women to work in factories to provide for the war also helped accelerate the development of women’s rights. Denim became a symbol of power for women during World War II, as seen in the iconic Rosie the Riveter print ad, with the woman in the picture wearing a denim shirt and showing her bicep with the text “We Can Do
It!” Media, specifically movies and TV during the 50’s and then later in the late 70’s and 80’s, played a huge role in the adaptation of traditional blue jeans as a common American wardrobe staple. Characters on television and in films that wore jeans helped change the image and connotations given off by denim and jeans. The characters played by James Dean and Marlon Brando were the stereotypical “bad boys.” The character Jim Stark, played by James Dean, from the movie Rebel Without a Cause is a rebellious young man who moves to a new town. James Dean in Rebel Without a Cause is notorious for wearing jeans, as well as Marlon Brando in The Wild One. These characters created a perception of denim that included the idea that it was edgy and rebellious, yet it was still considered blue-collar attire. Many people did not choose to wear jeans because it would give them the image of being a “punk”. The largest and most notorious seller of jeans, Levi Strauss & Co., only started selling jeans beyond the western states after World War II, but denim was not initially accepted by the states in the East. The company used the same advertisements as in the West, which included print ads advertising that jeans were the proper attire for a schoolboy. The eastern states were not yet accustomed to denim and perceived it as lacking class and promoting juvenile delinquency due to rebellious, denim-clad characters on TV, and in response, some schools in the East banned denim. In a letter to Levi Strauss & Co., a woman living in the East wrote “…assuming that only ignorance is responsible for such a lack of good taste… Let’s not desecrate our schools nor promote juvenile delinquency,” in response to a print ad stating Levi’s jeans to be part of proper school attire. However, the East’s opposition to denim was short-lived. By the 1960’s, jeans were the recognized uniform for societal rebellion and were worn nationwide. In the 1950’s, a new classification of jean wearers arose, termed bohemians or “beatniks”. They were a new kind of rebel, a dissenter going against the materialistic and conformist society of their time. Beatniks opted for a black sweater paired with their blue jeans because “To wear plain jeans and dark colors was to reject the more-is-better, new-is-better mentality of the Organization Man world,” (Gordon 34). The TV character Daisy Duke, played by Catherine Bach, from The Dukes of Hazzard wore revealing,denim cutoff shorts and was an outgoing, occasionally feisty female character with strong opinions. Teenage girls looked up to her as an independant female character, just as women were breaking down the barriers of the expected domestic life of a woman with the Feminist Movement beginning in the 1960’s and continuing onward. Along with the independance of Daisy Duke, her denim shorts were revealing, which related to teenage girls and their burgeoning sexuality. In a book written by Nicole Graev, there is a chapter that includes an account of how and why she acquired her first pair of denim jeans in the 1980’s when she was on the breech of her teen years. Graev stated that jeans were worn by “the girls standing outside of the gas station smoking”(Graev 28), but Graev looked up to these girls because they were older and independant. Along with the gas station girls, Graev saw the character Daisy Duke as a role model. Her mother however was reluctant to buy Graev jeans as they “gave off a bad image” (Graev 30). Along with female role models sporting denim, societal pressures, such as 1960’s-1970’s printed advertisements depicting young women wearing jeans in sexually implicative positions, encouraged girls to buy jeans in order to promote their sexuality. In the present day, jeans are the most common piece of clothing in America. Jeans come in a huge selection of different styles, washes, and even colors. The historical image and connotations given by jeans have long since faded, and now all that remains is a popular style of pants. Jeans are now popular worldwide along with denim in different forms, such as denim jackets. By analyzing the aspects that contributed to the shift in meaning of jeans, it is found that jeans have had a significant cultural impact on America. They have helped sponsor radical subcultures, encourage participation in the war effort during World War II, and continued to be a large part of the basis of Western culture for decades. The popularization of jeans remains a significant aspect of American history and culture as a result of The Dude Ranch Craze, the influence of media on rebellious teenagers and young girls, and the use of denim as a symbol of patriotism during World War II which helped contribute to the Women’s Rights Movement.
Rosie the riveter was the face of recruiting women into the Armed Forces during WWII. The increasing demand for soldiers was not being filled fast enough by just males. As a result, between the years 1940 and 1945, the percentage of female service members increased from 27% to 37%. Even on the civilian side of things, the ratio of married working women outside of their homes increased to one out of every four. The population of women that did not join the war was prompted by Rosie the Riveter’s iconic image of working in one of the many munitions industries throughout the US.
Even though the real-life munitions worker was one of the basis of the Rosie campaign it took on a persona of its own. This persona was a fictitious character that was strong and bandanna-clad (“American Women in World War II”). Rosie was one of the most success recruitment tools in American history, and one of the most iconic images of working women during World War II. The most prominent image of Rosie the Riveter popularized in American culture was the version featured on the “We Can Do It!” posters created by the United States government (Hawkes). The Rosie the government made has a resemblance to Rockwell’s Rosie, but she is less masculine. This propaganda poster of Rosie the Riveter employed by the United States government was popular because she appealed to the sense of patriotism and common goal of the Second World War. Upgraded Rosie also showed that women could retain their femininity and womanhood in their service. Every Rosie the Riveter image played to this prevailing sense of patriotism that abounded in America during World War II. Patriotism was used as a primary motivator to recruit women for war work. Most American women had husbands, brothers, sons, and fiancés fighting on the frontlines of the war, so the women felt compelled to provide to make a contribution as citizens at home. Most of the time woman had to take care of their children and household while
The image of Rosie the Riveter displayed the ideal WWII woman - she was beautiful, strong, hardworking, and patriotic. The Rosie the Riveter in this analysis is actually the second Rosie image produced. The first Rosie the Riveter image appeared in 1943 on the cover of the Saturday Evening Post by Norman Rockwell (American National Biography). The second, more familiar Rosie image produced by J. Howard Miller as an advertisement for Westinghouse Company’s War Production Coordinating Committee. While both Rosie images were intended for WWII propaganda, the “We can do it!” Rosie circulated nationally to mobilize women to join in with the war effort (Learn NC). The motivation to mobilize women to join the war effort was primarily due to the work shortage. Since men were off fighting, there was no one to work in the
Rosie the Riveter is a cultural icon of the United States whom represented the women who worked in factories during World War II, many of whom produced military equipment and war supplies. These women sometimes took entirely new jobs replacing the male workers who were in the military. The symbol of feminism and women's economic power was often amplified through Rosie the Riveter. "Rosie the Riveter" was a popular phrase first used in 1942 in a song of the same name written by Redd Evans. Auto factories were converted to build airplanes, shipyards were expanded, and new factories were built, and all these facilities needed workers. While the men were busy fighting in war, women were dominant in assistance. Companies took the idea of hiring women seriously. Eventually, women were needed because companies were signing large, lucrative contracts with the government just as all the men were leaving for the service. The various elements or figures of Rosie was based on a group of women, most of whom were named Rose. Many of these women named "Rose" varied in class, ethnicity, geography, and background diversity. One specially, who's had the biggest impact of all Rosie's was Rose Will Monroe. Rose Will Monroe, the most influential "Rosie" at the time, represented women during World War II by working most of her time in a Michigan factory.
Jeans were just one of the different categories of pants along with casual pants and dress pants, and jeans had dominated the category until the 1990's when sales had tapered off when consumers migrated over to khakis, cargo pants, and other types of pants. However, when new innovations in fabrics and style in the jeans category came to the forefront in 2001, people's tastes began to switch back over to jeans. In 2002, jeans sales were predicted to grow by 2-3%.
started to produce more and more, and many men that worked in the factories were drafted into the army, leaving open jobs. With such high demands came propaganda that would call for one unlikely group of people, who were believed that their place was inside the home, women. One poster that delivered “The Need to Work” theme greatly and was able to be “… shouting at people from unexpected places with all urgency...” (Every Citizen a Soldier) was the “Soldiers Without Guns” poster. This poster depicted three strong and proud looking women who work attire for jobs usually given to men, such as welding or a factory job. The poster successfully encouraged women to take on such jobs because if the ladies in the poster were able to look this strong and have such equality, then any women could too. When it depicted the equality for women, it pushed other women to go out and find work because that was one thing wanted during that time. The propaganda successfully conveyed a convincing message because women would see it and be drawn to the idea of the equal opportunity for jobs and fill the much needed openings. These jobs that needed workers to aid the war effort eventually were filled up by millions of women, “…the female percentage of the U.S. workforce increased from 27 percent to 37 percent, and by 1945 nearly one out of every four married women worked outside the home.” ( www.history.com). The need for work was not
The image of the cowboy as Jennifer Moskowitz notes in her article “The Cultural Myth of the Cowboy, or, How the West was Won” is “uniquely
During the war, men were off fighting for America, and the women were left behind to take over their jobs in the factories. Women proved that they can do almost all of the same jobs as men. Rosie the Riveter, a picture of a woman flexing with a caption of “We Can Do It,” became the symbol for women all across the nation. After the war, years later, women began to receive equal pay for the same jobs that the men were doing. Many other minority groups, such as African Americans, played a huge
As scores of men left the country, they left behind massive gaps in the United States workforce. The government noticed this problem, and drafted their infamous Rosie the Riveter posters (A&E Television Networks). Rosie the Riveter immediately became famous. The poster depicted a muscular, independent woman. The United States Government’s posters showed the necessity for female workers in the absence of men (A&E Television Networks). That being said, Rosie the Riveter became the most important advertisement for the production of materials for the war materials (A&E Television Networks). As more women joined the working class, the press strived to persuade them that they could do the work typically regarded as a man’s job and still be considered feminine(A&E Television Networks). It may seem like a silly idea, but women were still overall regarded as the weaker sex. Until World War II, they had not yet had the chance to prove themselves to society.
"A rapidly expanding war economy absorbed most of the reserve labor force," (307) yet it still was not enough, the economy demanded a larger work force. This demand worked in cooperation with the availability of the women of the time. "'Commando Mary' and 'Rosie the Riveter' became symbols of women who heeded their country's call" (307). There were many enticements luring women to join the work force. These enticements included higher war wages, more available time and opportunity to work, and wartime restrictions on leisure activities.
Company also took the advantage of changes that started to appear according to the dress code at work place. In that times company accentuated 100% cotton in Levi’s jeans, as “baby boomer” who grew up were seeking for natural fibers.
The cowboys of the frontier have long captured the imagination of the American public. Americans, faced with the reality of an increasingly industrialized society, love the image of a man living out in the wilderness fending for himself against the dangers of the unknown. By the end of the 19th century there were few renegade Indians left in the country and the vast expanse of open land to the west of the Mississippi was rapidly filling with settlers.
Women showed their skill and ability to work, changing their role in society. “Women were hired for traditionally male occupations” (“Women in business”). After being hired for male jobs, women were portrayed differently and not as the average housewife. In 1944 women addressed the fact they do not get equal pay for equal work and to have working conditions improved (“Women in Society”). That included having childcare for working mothers. This prepared women to be more aggressive and be more demanding so society would accept them and so they could continue taking on these nontraditional roles after war (“Women in Society”). Working made women more demanding and they stood up themselves. It did take some convincing to have women join the workforce. The concept of working women was encouraged and advertised during the war because employment was necessary. Rosie the Riveter was also a shaped image and type of role model for women to follow (“Women in Society”). Women were comfortable being housewives before the demand for workers, but things had to change. Women’s viewpoint changed from staying home and taking care of the household, to them not wanting to be known as a housewifes anymore. “They demanded participation in the public arena and refused to accept the restrictions of traditional gender roles”(“Women in Society”). Women wanted to participate more in the community and contribute more to the country. Not only did they want to participate more in society, but they wanted to be viewed as equal to men in society. In 1944, women addressed the fact they do not get equal pay for equal work and to have working conditions improved. That included having childcare for working mothers. This prepared women to be more aggressive and be more demanding so society would accept them and to continue taking on these nontraditional roles after the war (“Women in Society”). After witnessing how they were able
In the world of fashion, there is denim. It is one of the world’s oldest fabrics, and has been modified and remodelled to go with the latest fashion trends. The first ones who wore this fabric are workers in the California Gold Rush era, designed by Jacob Davis because of its sturdy material that withstood the harsh working conditions. Not just them, even sailors from Italy use this material too as their sailing uniform. Then, it started appearing as an actor’s apparel, and that’s when denim started to become one of a fashion item. People started wearing jeans as part of their daily apparel and even adding their own ideas, such as studs and colouring it with different shades of denim. It doesn’t only stop around that era, but today, they are seen everywhere and has become a major clothing piece for almost all of the age groups. As a reference, we can see young children already wears jeans as part of their clothing, the teenagers added jeans to their wardrobe, and even for the seniors, they consider jeans as a simple and comfortable clothing pieces.
The story behind the birth of jeans emerges from an interesting collaboration between an innovative tailor and a bright businessman. In 1853, Levi Strauss established a whole dry goods business in San Francisco, selling clothing and many other products to small general stores all through the west of America. One of many regular costumers was Jacob Davis, a tailor in Reno Nevada, who used to purchase his work material from the whole sale house of Levi Strauss & Co. At some point, Davis invented the process to rivet the pocket corners on men’s pants to make them stronger. Having earned great success, Davis decides to write to Levi Strauss, suggesting that they jointly apply for a patent; and Levi agreed. Consequently, in 1873, Levi Strauss & Jacob Davis are granted a patent on the process of riveting pants by the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office on May 20. It is patent number 139,121 and this is the invention of the blue jeans.