Developmental Autobiography

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The waves were crashing, the sand was wet, the sun was glaring off the water line. This is one of my earliest childhood memories. The ocean has been a part of my childhood and a symbol of my identity for as long as I can remember. The ocean's unknown depths have always scared me, but also have been comforting in so many unfamiliar ways. I was raised, always on the sand staring at the waves crashing. The Pacific Ocean was my playground to splash around in the waves and dig holes to bury myself in. For as long as I can remember, the moment I felt the ocean breeze and the salty water, I was in my own world. I was raised in a family of surfers whose whole lives were surrounded by the time of the day they could go and surf. A moment to forget about …show more content…

I would spend so long trying to make it out past the break and would keep getting pushed back. I would be frustrated and upset but over many years I learned how to stay strong and keep pushing. I grew stronger both physically and mentally and began to make it out to the big waves. Surfing has taught me the importance of how I have to keep pushing and give everything my best and everything good will follow. After all the hard work, I finally enjoyed sitting out in the waves and being truly free. As I got older, I had periods of times where I would surf nonstop rather than stop for weeks at a time. I began to grow up and develop more responsibilities and …show more content…

I went months without surfing or being in the ocean and was in a constant cycle of being busy. I stopped making time for my hobbies and what I truly enjoy in life. I had no outlet for my stress or anything to take my mind off all that was going on in my life. I began to lose sight of what truly mattered in life and also slowly lost a part of myself. One day, I had just gotten off work and was driving along the coast staring at the light bouncing off the water line and the surfers playing in the waves. As I am staring off on the horizon I realise how much I had allowed myself to get consumed by everything crazy in my life and how in all that I lost what truly mattered to me. I pulled over into the pipes parking lot and changed into my shorts and went down to the water. I began to walk down the creaky wooden steps as the ocean breeze hit my face for what felt like the first time. I set my stuff down and walked into the water to go swim in the waves. The second I jumped into the ocean and was floating there, I felt at peace once again. The first time I had truly felt at peace in months and could leave everything behind and just be present in the

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