Physical-Chemical Oceanography II
Apart from the effects of the sun and moon the shape of a coast can also be a factor in determining the type of affect a tide has at a coastal location. Coastal regions that are flat and go on for miles would have a relatively calm increase during high tide. On the other hand coasts that have bottle neck lay out would make a huge difference in the tide. According to the national Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration “The shape of bays and estuaries also can magnify the intensity of tides. Funnel-shaped bays in particular can dramatically alter tidal magnitude.” The magnitude of a tide differs depending on the shape of a coastal line the narrower a bay is the greater the magnitude of the tide. One example of
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It is clear from the picture the effects the shapes of a coast has on the magnitude of a tide. Tides depending on the material making up a coastal region tend to shape the region. Coastal regions that are made up of sedimentary rocks such as sandstone are easily eroded. As the tide comes in and out over time it tends to shape the coast. Some sections of the coast are stronger than others so the weaker sections would be easily eroded and dragged out to sea.
There are three major types of tides which are semidiurnal, mixed semidiurnal and diurnal tides. Semidiurnal tides are tides that are symmetrical with two high and two low tides being about the same height. Mixed semidiurnal tides are tides that have a difference in height when it comes to high and low tide. Diurnal tides are tides that only take place in selected places around the world this type of tides only have one high and one low tide. An example of a place where this type of tides takes place is the Gulf of
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The North Equatorial current is a current that flow west ward from the central regions of Central America. It is very close the equator hence its name. Due to the proximity of the current to the equator it is a warm current. The fact the current originates near the equators makes it a warm current and also a slow moving current. As the current reaches Philippines and Taiwan is starts to curve upwards and it is then diverted. The new current from that point is known as the Kuroshio current. The Kuroshio current is a North Eastern flowing current. The current flows past Japan and Nansei Shoto then flow’s more east back towards the North American continent. The is a part of the Kuroshio current known as the Tsushima current which is a current that flows between the Tsushima strait between Korea and Japan. The Kuroshio current is a warm current due to the fact is it made up of largely tropical water. It is a fast moving current with an average speed of “2.7-3.6 km/hr”. As the Kuroshio current arrives at north America is then directed south. The new current found here is the California current. The California current is a cold current because it originates at the top of the North American continent. The California current is a very complex current. According to the national imagery and mapping agency “But the flow pattern is complex, with offshore directed jets often
* A decrease in pebble size in the direction of long shore drift. * An increase in pebble roundness in the direction of long shore drift. I visited the two extreme ends of the beach, Gore point at the west and Hurl stone point at the east, at each end I measured: * The shape of the beach known as the beach profile, using a tape measurer and a clinometer. A clinometer measures the angle of a slope. * The size and shape of a sample of pebbles.
Investigating the Geographical Processes that are Affecting the Physical and Built Coastal Environment There are three geographical processes that are affecting the physical and built coastal environment, they are; erosion, deposition, and transportation. Erosion is the group of natural processes, including weathering, dissolution, abrasion, corrosion, and transportation, by which material is worn away from the earth’s surface, this is mainly caused by wind, running water, and waves breaking on the coast. Deposition is the depositing something or the laying down of matter by a natural process. Transportation is when sand is moved along the coast by long shore drift. At North Cronulla beach erosion is evident.
On average a given spot will experience two high tide and two low tides in a day. The tides are experienced due to the moon gravitational pull. The low tides are experienced when we are facing 90 and 180 degrees away from the moon. Then the high tides are found when we are facing the moon and when we are facing away from the moon.
coast (as shown in pictures 1 & 2). The area of sea is subject to the
times the length of the Bay. By virtue of blind luck or physics, the tide is
There are many different types of coasts that exist throughout the United States. The south shore of Long Island has a unique types of coast known as a barrier beach. Barrier beaches are long narrow land forms that are composed of sand and other lose sediments. These sediments are brought together by the actions of waves, currents and storm surges. Barrier beaches are subject to constant changes by the same forces. Sand is constantly eroded in one area an deposited in another. Barrier coasts are important for a number of reasons; they protect the mainland of Long Island from the open ocean and flooding during storms, for recreational use and the unique ecosystems which exist on barrier beaches.
Case Study of Hastings Coastal Management Hastings is a town on the south coast of England approximately 60 miles south of London (see map below). In recent years, the coastline at Hastings has had to face many large scale problems, including the 10 km stretch from Hastings eastwards to the small town of Fairlight. With the coastline at constant exposure to the English Channel, there are many coastal processes which take place along the stretch of beach and cliff. [IMAGE][IMAGE] [IMAGE][IMAGE] Longshore Drift [IMAGE] Fetch [IMAGE]The map on the left illustrates the location of Hastings and also the area of the coastline which is being discussed in this case study.
Longshore drift influences the deposition and erosion of sediments. Waves erode the coast and transport the eroded material along the coastline. Over a period of time, the material will be deposited on a beach or form a larger feature such as a spit. Groynes are structures built at equal intervals along the coastline. Their purpose is to restrict longshore drift, preventing coastal erosion.
"An Ocean Of Trash." Scholastic Action 33.12 (2010): 16. MasterFILE Complete. Web. 31 Jan. 2014.
In other words, Carson is saying that the tides are more expressive when the moon Is experiencing activity. Also, when the moon is full the tidal movement are correlated in the same sequence causing the waves to be more aggressive. All of these instances are mathematically calculated and proven. Last but not least, Carson writes about the negative effects the tides have caused in the opposite side of the
Primary coasts are divided into two categories: submergent and emergent coasts. Submergent coastlines result from a general sea-level rise and crustal subsidence. Most of the eastern United States has submergent coastlines. One example is the Chesapeake Bay. Emergent coastlines result from the land being lifted, either by tectonic activity or rebound from the weight of heavy glaciers, which exposes the former sea bottom bit by bit forming continuously new shoreline.
Aim: The aim of this report is to identify the difference in sea walls at Collaroy beach and Cronulla beach and compare the structure of each sea wall too see what is most effective and productive. It will also analyse how both of the sea walls are affected by the particular wave patterns located at the beach and if these interfere with the structure of the walls. This also aims to explore how the beaches and surrounding areas were affected prior to the sea wall being constructed and the reason why the Sea wall was built in the first place. Reason for and Impacts of the Sea Wall at Collaroy: Prior to 2016, there was no sign of a man-made sea wall at Collaroy beach, the only form of sea wall was the naturally formed sea wall, these were the
Surface current are found in the upper four hundred meters (400m) and makes up about ten percent (10%) of ocean (Briney, n.d.). Surface ocean currents are as a result of friction between the water and atmosphere interface. The wind exerts a force or stress to the ocean surface and causes the water to move. The winds that most affect the oceans’ currents are the Westerlies which produce belts of ocean currents that flow east in the mid-latitude and the Trade winds which generate currents that flow to the west in tropical latitudes. These winds are mainly a result of warm air from the tropics moving towards the poles. The direction of the current is not the same as the direction of the wind but it is deflected at a forty five degree angle. This deflection is resulted from the earth’s rotation on its axis called the Coriolis force/ effect. Coriolis force and constrains by continental land masses cause surface currents to develop into an alm...
Shoreline Stabilization North Carolina’s barrier islands, a 325 mile-long string of narrow sand islands that forms the coast of North Carolina, are one of the most beloved places to visit and live in the United States. With the winds and tides, we change yearly. Look back on a map from twenty years ago and you can see how the Outer Banks has changed. The lines have shifted, new inlets have opened and closed, and overall the famous barrier islands are getting narrower.
Tides are common features of the ocean. Tides occur when large bodies water rise and fall, because of the gravitational pull of the moon and the sun. Spring tides are especially strong tides; in spite of the name they have nothing to do with the season spring. They occur when the Earth, the sun, and the moon are in a line. Spring tides occur during the full moon and the new moon. Neap tides are especially weak tides. They occur when the gravitational forces of the moon and the sun are perpendicular to one another. When water moves from side to side, it is called a current. Currents move warm and cold water to different parts of the ocean.