Importance Of Surfing

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Surfing is considered as one of the most popular sport in the world nowadays, as it appears to me as a better alternative sport in addition to football and basketball. When I was eleven years old, the first thing I used to see when walking my dog next to the beach every morning is a man wearing a black suit lying on a white board who was hardly trying to catch a wave.
One day after finishing my school I went to the beach, then I saw the black suited man struggling with a wave, I was impressed but disappointed to see him persisting nor failing to catch that big wave. After watching the black suited man show who indeed failed to attain his objective, I went back to home with a lot of questions which made me curious about what was the name of …show more content…

My mother was in the kitchen cooking dinner when I suddenly came running and sweating asking her what was the black suited man lying on white board doing. She looked at me for a few seconds with a cute smile drawn on her face, and told me that the black suited man lying on white board is a surfer. I was quite surprised but happy after my mother’s illumination.
After that, I immediately asked my mom to help me join the surfing club in order to learn how to surf. It was both a great and difficult moment for me, I had the obligation to persevere in my studies and of course in the training. Learning how to ride a wave wasn’t an easy task for me. The first major task was to learn speed paddling which is an essential surfing skill. First, I had to paddle and at the same time to feel the speed of the wave. I also had to walk with my board until I waist in deep water. Secondly, I also had to keep my weight in the middle of the board for my equilibrium due to the body position importance in surfing. The thing is that when you are lying on a surfboard you should be able to paddle, feel the …show more content…

Hence, I had to know which foot I was naturally standing on while trying to catch a wave. In my case, I was more comfortable when I stood on the left foot which is mainly called natural stance. Once I mastered paddling and standing, my instructor told me that it was time for me to learn how to choose the angle on a wave. I felt happy because it didn’t take me a while to learn how to paddle and stand. Unfortunately, the learning process of choosing the angle on a wave was the most difficult and hard task I’ve ever had to complete. The real aim of choosing the angle on a wave wasn’t that easy because I had to ride the longest wave possible with the greatest amount of speed. The difficulty is in choosing the direction whether right or left depends on the quality and speed of the wave. The second struggle I’ve faced was in acquiring the talent of understanding and predicting the waves behavior, but in fact the way how I approach each wave depends on the type of the wave I like to ride the most. After several months of struggle, failure and injuries, I’ve finally earned the respect of my instructor after I won my very first surfing contest. I was in a state of intense happiness

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