For my passion project, I chose to learn how to surf for purposes of meditation and exercise. My goal was to surf every other week, and my end product was a video and personal reflection on how surfing shifted my energy and bettered my wellbeing. I had no prior knowledge on surfing except a single lesson taken two years prior. All I knew was that it was difficult mentally and physically, yet at the same time relaxing.
Before I dove into my project, I talked to my past teacher, Mr. Baldauf, and asked him the following questions:
When did you start surfing?
“I started surfing in 2005, but body surfing since I was young. So I have an understanding of the waves. I grew up sailing and being in the water as well as skating and snowboarding.”
2. Is it is a form of meditation for you?
“Yes, it’s a form of slowing down and being present.”
3. What’s your favorite place to surf?
“Ocean beach when it’s 8 or 9 feet.”
4. What are the top beaches in California I should surf?
“Zuma Beach, Malibu, El Porto. Venice Pier. San Onofre State Beach, San Clemente, First Point at Surfrider Beach, Malibu, Cowells, Santa Cruz,
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When you paddle out, you detach from the land that is filled with distractions, technology and noise, and allow your mind and body to sync. Surfing requires so much attention and thought, but it is all focused on the present. Depending of the conditions and your relationship with it, surfing can cause moments of fear, intimidation, and sometimes even boredom. Yet there is always moment of pride and relaxation, no matter what. The feeling when you stand on top of a fully uncontrollable natural element, is liberating. A surfer, joined by only their body and a board, handles the mind of the ocean; allowing an unrestrained connection to nature. This intense harmony embodies the beauty and philosophy that is
In “On a Wave” by Thad Ziolkowski there are some life changing/shaping lessons in his life. Thad realized at a young age that he loves to surf. At 11 years old Thad looks older than most 11 years old, which allows him to hang out with the “cool” kids after a surf session and smoke pot. Thad learns early on that pot and surfing would eventually grow on him as he became more induced into the surfer lifestyle.
Surfing has come a long way since it was first conceived (roughly 1500 years ago). From the Polynesian “watermen” and Hawaiian Kings, to the European takeover in Hawaii and surfing's American debut in the early twentieth century and all the way through present day, surfing has had a rich history. Over the decades, surfing has fit in to a number of roles in society, but whether we surfers are seen as beach-bums or heroes (as of late), we still surf only because we love it, because the ocean’s calls us, because nothing else on this planet can create the sensation felt by riding a wave.
These past few summers I have been spending a lot more time in the water, whether it be jet skiing in Vietnam or kayaking in the waters of Florida, I have enjoyed every minute of it all. I always like watching surfers out in the waves and because of how great they make it look, I want to give it a try. Hence the reason why it is on my bucket list. Prior to surfing, there are many things I will need to gain knowledge on such as the gear, dangers, precautions, and much more. In order for me to check it off my bucket list, I will need to procure all of this information. Surfing is not just all fun and games, it is a serious sport, and to really enjoy it, I have to make sure that I am doing it right.
Britton, Veronica. "The Origins of Surfing." The Sport of Kings. N.p.. Web. 6 Dec 2013.
began to go surfing everyday either before or after school. Eventually his love for surfing grew
“Hopefully, kids realize you can do anything you want. Skateboarding can be that gateway.” - Ryan Sheckler. Sheckler meant that skateboarding is more than a sport, skateboarding is way of life and it can take people wherever they want to go. The culture of skateboarding has been taking over the world because anyone can do it no matter what their background, ethnicity, or body shape. This way of life is art form that is expressed through style and maneuvers on a piece of wood with wheels. Skateboarding has become one of the most popular extreme sports in the past few decades. In 2009 there was an estimated 9,281,500 skateboarders in the United States and that number continues to grow each year (“Who Are Skateboarders”). Why then are skateboarders
The beaches of South Carolina are a prized quality and possession to the state and its people as it provides beauty, enjoyment and the economic benefits of tourism year round. Due to storms, natural processes of sand movement and development, the beaches of South Carolina, specifically the Grand Strand beaches and local beaches of Sullivan’s Island and Folly Beach, are eroding at a rapid rate. Erosion is a natural process effected by sea level rise, storms and currents and many techniques have been used in the past to combat erosion issues that threaten to wash away beaches and homes in the process. Erosion preventative structures used in the past, such as jetties and seawalls, have proven to be even more damaging to beach erosion but Beach Front Management policies and local and state government agencies are working hard to reverse the effects and incorporate new ways to fight erosion. Today new policies are in effect to protect the eroding coastline and beachfront properties in better ways, and new techniques such as beach renourishment are being used, but there is frustration and tension from community members and home owners as the sea inches closer everyday to their homes and threatens the beaches they love. Ultimately, protection of the South Carolina coast has come a long way in terms of policies and regulations, but stricter enforcement of regulations, awareness and responsible development is needed to ensure that property and the beaches are protected from erosion issues so that they are available for all to enjoy far into the future.
So you wanted to unwind the wave to the beginning of surfing. Surfing has a long history in every culture that has been by an ocean. It has shaped the government's of ancient Hawaiians. It has now formed into a multi billion dollar industry that dominates the gear needed to surf along with the competitions. It has become a family pastime that started in the fifties and that is still thriving still today.
person who is learning to surf or does not surf all together. It gets me so stoked to
I am adventurous. No I don't sky dive, wrestle crocodiles, or swim with sharks, but when asked by a group of friends to go cliff diving last summer, my best response was, “Sounds like fun!” I had never been afraid of heights yet have never experienced the thrill of cliff diving. All I could ask myself was, “What could go wrong?”
The history of surfing is expansive and quite long. It was started about 2000 years ago and continues into today. Surfing is one of the best sports in my opinion I once did it on a trip to California and I truly believe you will like it . The best locations for surfing are found in Hawaii and California and the best time to go surfing is around the summer and spring days mainly because the waves are much bigger and it feels better around this time of year . The worst time to go however is around winter or fall because the water is really cold and depending on the place your at but luckily its mostly warm in Hawaii and California so you should be good .
Skateboarders have been the butt in many of society’s jokes. Society has put skateboarders into the category of being the most agitators there are about in life. Most people look down on skateboarders because they are different. As a skateboarder I go through the peer-pressure of society everyday. We are dealt with the burden of being society's losers.
Over the span of the sixteen years which I have been alive , I have managed to accomplish many things. From taking my first steps as a baby to learning how to drive today. Yet, one of my greatest accomplishments would have to be learning how to swim. When I was eight years old my father decided to put me into swimming lessons. He believed that swimming would be advantageous towards my health and act as a fun sport that I could partake in. At the time, I thought this was a horrible idea because I had a huge fear of swimming as I wasn’t a very adventurous person. Though, by taking swimming classes I learnt to overcome my fear, I realized swimming wasn’t as scary as I thought, infact it turned out be quite fun and easy. In addition to overcoming
When I was 5 years old, Dad woke me up one morning and informed me that he was finally going to teach me how to surf. I was ecstatic. I used to watch my brothers in envy as I crouched on the damp sand with my head between my hands resting on my knees, sulking at the fact that I wasn’t allowed to surf until I was 5.