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History of surfing essay
Paragraph about the history of surfing
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Surfing
The intent of this paper is to introduce the reader to surfing. There are many things to learn about surfing such as its history, surf gear, and safety hints.
Surfing is a water sport that involves planing, “in a controlled way,” on the sloping portion of a wave as it moves toward shore. The most basic form of the sport is body surfing. It is done without a board. A person first swims toward shore “to equal the wave speed.” Then the person stiffens the body in order to “plane” on the front of the wave. Surfing is basically the same as body surfing. The only difference is, instead of stiffening the body, the surfer must stand on a surfboard.
In the middle 1950's, surfboards were made of heavy wood. They were handmade and required alot of sanding and filing to make the boards smooth.
Today's surfboards are manufactured in a factory using light balsa wood or fiberglass and polyurethane. An added benefit of using these materials is a great reduction in the weight of the boards.
Surfing is becoming more popular each year. For safety, new surfers must be good swimmers. Boards should be checked for cracks and slivers before each use. All surfers should check the water conditions posted at the life guard station before entering the water. Surfing should only be done during the daylight hours and when other people are present. A new beginning surfboard costs $50.00 to $70.00. A helpful device is a leash which attaches around the wrist with velcro to the board. In this way, the board will not drift away from the surfer. A good leash costs $7.00 to $11.00. Surfers might also want to
* A decrease in pebble size in the direction of long shore drift. * An increase in pebble roundness in the direction of long shore drift. I visited the two extreme ends of the beach, Gore point at the west and Hurl stone point at the east, at each end I measured: * The shape of the beach known as the beach profile, using a tape measurer and a clinometer. A clinometer measures the angle of a slope. * The size and shape of a sample of pebbles.
coast (as shown in pictures 1 & 2). The area of sea is subject to the
wave to form, the surging tide must meet an obstacle. When the ocean meets the
walking across them. The lines and pulleys and some parts of the waves are example of
Wakeboarding is a water sport in which a rider holds onto a rope attached to a moving boat and is able to surf, jump, and twist along the water. Wakeboarding can be very challenging as a beginner, but once mastered it can also be a very exhilarating experience. Although it may look easy as a spectator, wakeboarding is not a walk in the park, and many beginners experience anxiety while first learning the sport. However, people can overcome this fear through determination and instruction from an experienced wakeboarder.
*Wipeout- to fall off your board, usually being engulfed by the wave afterward and thrown around the ocean floor by the swells.
Britton, Veronica. "The Origins of Surfing." The Sport of Kings. N.p.. Web. 6 Dec 2013.
Think about it for a moment, each time a surfer goes to a beach, waxes up his board, and surveys the waves from the shore, he is preparing to go into the water to do something quite amazing. This person is willing to test not only his limits, but also the limits of what the ocean can do to him. He wants to battle the power of the entity that covers over seventy percent of the earth, manifested in the form of a wave, and ride it for all its worth.
For those who are curious about fishing, but never seem to have any luck, here are a few simple guidelines to follow which will have you reeling them in in no time. Catching fish can be really easy to do if one has the correct equipment, location, weather, and presentation.
"People either love it, or they hate it," Fred proclaimed again, for the umpteenth time. His reddish face almost glowed against the gray sky. The combination of giddy grin, round cheeks, and fine, yellow, tousled hair yielded a face far too boyish for a man in his mid-fifties. But the always-present twinkle in Fred's eye was ever so slightly diminished today, and I knew why: he feared that his intuition might be mistaken and that I might not, after all, take to today's activity. His concern was compounded by weather; it was far from ideal for this, my first sail. Why was it so important to him that I like sailing anyway?
Many people think of scuba diving as just a swim in the water, but in reality it is a very exciting, dangerous, and potentially fatal sport and activity. There are many types of scuba diving, ranging from recreational to sport to career diving. Scuba Diving is just not a swim in the water, scuba requires certification, uses technical equipment, and there is a lot of risk involved with scuba diving.
Unlike other sports, kiteboarding is not a sport where one can catch a ball, shot and score. If someone is serious ...
Any form of competitive swimming did not appear until the 1800s in Europe when schools accepted swimming as a natural part of life education. In the 18th and 19th century it became a competitive sport than being just a life saving skill. Swimming teams and clubs started to evolve all over the world. Although England was the first country to have an inside pool they aren’t one of the first countries of all times , China, Germany and Sweden were the first countries in swimming history. England and also invented the side stroke and after this one the freestyle evolved. Although there aren’t swimming competitions of side stroke it’s also known as a global stroke. In this essay I’m going to explain the changes of swimming for example the technology in swimming pools, the changes in bodies of the people that swam and more.