Chevy Truck Ignition Switch Problem

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Chevrolet Truck Ignition Switch Problem

The Chevrolet truck ignition switch problem is commonly found on two separate generations of Chevy pickup trucks and sport utility vehicles. The older style ignition switch on the 1995 through 1999 trucks exhibits a different list of symptoms associated with the failed part.

On the 2000 and newer Chevrolet Silverado, Suburban and Tahoe trucks we have the same ignition switch problem that exhibits different symptoms than the older trucks. Fortunately, I have replaced enough of these switches that I now bypass my [[standard logical path of diagnosis]] and testing.

This saves time when I can just jump in and replace the Chevrolet truck ignition switch if the symptoms meet certain criteria. In this brief …show more content…

More specifically, the transmission can shift incorrectly and start out in the wrong gear due to an intermittent power supply to the electronically controlled transmission.

The way to tell this seemingly serious transmission problem apart from an ignition switch malfunction is to immediately pull the trouble codes from [[the vehicle's main computer]]. When you find shift solenoid trouble codes like P0753, P0758 and P0785 this becomes an indication of failed ignition switch.

On these older Chevrolet trucks you might also set a torque converter clutch solenoid code like P0740 and P1860 that stands for a torque converter clutch solenoid electrical failure. When all of these codes are set together you can bypass diagnosis and head right for the ignition switch. If this is an original equipment component, you almost certainly found the root cause of the problem.

The 2000 and Newer Chevy Ignition Switch

The symptoms for the Chevrolet truck ignition switch problem on trucks from 2000 through 2008 are different than the ones associated with the older trucks. These drivers often complain about flickering warning lights on the …show more content…

Unfortunately, this redesign did not improve the reliability of the switch itself. However, it does make the part less expensive and easier to replace. The main difference between the old design and the new one is the switch disconnects from the harness.

It also disengages from the ignition lock cylinder in a different way. With that said, when you replace the switch, you must time it correctly to the position of the key. For this reason before removing the old switch I rotate the key to the accessory position.

Then when you install the new switch you need to verify that it is also in the same accessory position before you install the new part. This means you rotate the nylon wheel all the way to the down position. If you fail to get the timing correct between the lock cylinder and the ignition switch you will not be able to fully seat the new part.

In other words it won’t click into place. This is not the end of the world. It will just take some moving of the ignition key until you find the correct position. With that said, it's easier if you time the new switch to the same exact position as the one you removed. By selecting the accessory position you make this task easier on

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