Tristan Da Cunha Report

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We were heading to the most remote inhabited island in the world. Four days sail from the nearest mainland, Tristan da Cunha is one of the last outposts of the British Empire. Stranded alone in the midst of the South Atlantic, the Tristan archipelago lies midway between Africa and America, 2 800 kilometres from the Cape of Good Hope and 3 950 kilometres from the nearest landfall in Argentina.

For many passengers aboard Le Lyrial, our Ponant expedition ship, Tristan da Cunha was the Holy Grail on their world traveller’s bucket-list. None of the crew, passengers or expedition leaders had ever visited Tristan before. Captain Remi Genevaz, our experienced Antarctic navigator, knew he was in big trouble if the notorious big swells of the roaring …show more content…

After four days at sea from South Georgia, Tristan materialised like an apparition in the great infinity of the Atlantic. We were all out on deck the day we arrived, anchoring off Edinburgh of the Seven Seas, the isolated settlement which lives in the shadow of the mighty volcano. Every documentary gives this island a new sobriquet - “an ocean away from anywhere”, “the forgotten island”, “a step out of time” and “further than the furthest thing” (Zinnie Harris’ award-winning 2002 play about Tristan).

But the swell at high tide was way too big. We watched the drenched crew do a test run and ride the gauntlet through the rocky entrance of the harbour. The captain informed us that the island authorities had refused permission for us to disembark by zodiac until the sea subsided. A wet chief islander and customs officers came on board to stamp an albatross and a volcano in our passports. The post office staff came aboard to sell stamps, postcards and handcrafts to the waiting …show more content…

While we waited for the swell to subside, Le Lyrial circumnavigated the steep circular volcanic island of 96 square kilometres to see curious local landmarks like Deadman’s Bay, “Pigbite”, “The place where the goat fell off the cliff” and “The minister lost his things”! Shrouded in cloud, the volcano’s cone, St Mary’s Peak, towers 2 060 metres above a brooding island with sheer black cliffs that fall into the sea. Covered in ferns, lichen, moss and tussock grass, the slopes are green and

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